I began to panic because somehow or other time slipped away
and I hadn’t done a thing with those blocks since I tucked them away just
before Christmas. As soon as I got home
I sewed two more blocks so I had 12 to work with. Monday I saw the sand in the hour glass
running out, so I got busy.
This was a perfect project to test out the QAYG technique,
or Quilt As You Go. It allows you to
machine quilt each block one at a time then attach them. The tutorials and you tube videos made it sound super easy,
each having their own ‘how to’ variations.
Well, they made it look a lot easier than it was. First, several of the tutorials showed
sashing that was not aligned, some off quite a bit.
I would need to figure out how to avoid this before I sewed a
stitch. Second, each of the blocks I
received were off slightly, meaning they were over or undersized from 12.25” to 12.75” (instead
of 12.5” exactly), or done on an angle that didn’t work for this layout. But……here we go!
First here is the list of supplies I used:
1 – 12.5” square plastic template
1 – 45MM rotary cutter, with new blade (key!)
24” long quilter’s ruler
1 twin size Hobbs Heirloom wool batting (I liked the soft
loft)
12 "Buddy" blocks
White fabric for backing/sashing
Dark Green for front sashing/binding
1 roll HEAT PRESS fusible batting tape
Elmer’s School Glue stick, disappearing purple (so you can
see it until it dries)
Flat head pins
Scissors and threads
Scissors and threads
1.
Cut 1 - 14” squares of batting and 15” square
backing for each block. Layer quilt block, batting and backing in a
sandwich, press. Carefully pin, then machine
quilt each as desired. Trim threads. The top block may shrink from the machine quilting, but this will be
covered by your sashing.
2.
CAREFULLY and precisely square up each block using the 12.5”
square template. Using the template ensures you have a perfect square each time which helps align and connect them as you go. After squaring, the batt/backing corners
should match up and the side should align perfectly, regardless of the size variation in the initial blocks. Take your
time, as this step determines how successful your end result will be.
3. Lay out your blocks as you plan to
assemble.
4. Cut enough 2” x full width strips from your front and back sashing fabrics to make 1” binding tape to connect your blocks. There are several quick ways to do this….1) press using a binding tape tool if you have one, or 2) using 2 long pins, create a 1” channel on your ironing surface and pull your tape thru, leaving the iron in place so you can adjust as you pull. This is very fast once you get the hang of it. Set aside. Use a pressing cloth underneath the iron if you're worried about scorching your surface.
5.
Next assemble one row of blocks at a time. I connected three blocks, using two sashing
strips. Working with the blocks face up
first, align and butt together as close as possible. Carefully center a ¾” strip fusible heat
press tape over the seam. Press according
to instructions. The photo shows the backside so its clearer. Next run a line of
purple school glue down the center of the fusible heat press tape then center
the sashing piece on top, press to set. The purple disappears once dry. Repeat
on both seams then gently flip blocks over and repeat on back side. Carefully
pin in place on the face, making sure to catch the bottom. Topstitch from the face
side, catching both top and bottom sashing strips. Trim threads.
6.
Once you have a row of blocks sewn, trim the excess
sashing using your rotary cutter and ruler.
Make sure this line is perfectly straight, as you will be butting it up
to another row.
7.
Once you have two rows done, connect them using
the same process. BE SURE TO ALIGN YOUR
BLOCKS/ROWS SO THE SASHINGS MATCH! And so sorry for the unpleasant shadow on the right side......you should be looking at the connecting sashing and layout on the left anyway.
8.
Repeat these steps with each row until you have
the entire quilt assembled.
9.
To finish I made my favorite standard binding
and finished as normal. I know this
would get easier the more I do it, but I’m pretty happy how it turned out. The only down sides are 1) it doesn’t have a
true border, but I could figure that out in the future, and 2) because of the
variation in block sizes I lost some of my points. Oh well, as a friend says…..if you can see
that while driving by at 20 MPH, then you should change it!